Making custom Necrons for my rpg

So thanks to a comment by Rob I decided to kind of make a how-to on the custom necrons I made for my rpg campain.
Though most of these pictures are taken somewhat haphazardly during my build, I hope they will still be of use.

(Excuse the mess) 1.Glue 2.Knife 3.Nipper 4.Hobby files 5.Sanding paper (of different grit) 6.Pin vice 7.Paper-clips 8.Silicone brushes 9.Epoxy putty 10.Modelling putty.

You will also need the something to snack and good background music (both are optional)
Also a box of necron Immortals/deathmarks is somwhat nessesary since that’s what I used as a base for the customs.

I will spitt the tutorial up in different body parts to make things easier to explain. but all stages require you to at least remove the nubmarks and moldlines.

Lets start with the head

Step one! apply a blob of epoxy putty to make the face look like a brick!
Once dried (aproximetly 24 hours), use your files to refine the shape of the head and to finnish, create a slit in the middle going down along the face.
broaden the slit with some files or knifes. I used a hobby saw since I was satisfied with the thickness of the track it created.

Next, assembly the the torso of the deathmark without adding the back part.

Instead cut of parts from the tesla guns (power tubes, caples and detail) and glue them in an orderly fashion in the back pocket.

Should look a bit like this once assembled, minus head and arms and stuff

 

 

Now shorten the shoulder guards and fill the gaps of the “ribcage” with epoxy putty.
File down any unevenness once dried and fix patches with modelling putty if you find any.

like that but with smoother surface.

Let’s do the legs now!
Start by removing the spine from the legs and replace it with a metal clip, the length will determine the height of the of the model, remeber to gif it a bit extra since you need some to pin the legs to the torso. Now! The texture I tried to replicate using Epoxy putty and silicone brushes was the type of protective cover some robots use to prevent decontamination in sterile areas so it was a matter of making the epoxy look like as baggy as possibe through poking and creating naturally wrinkles all over.

something like this.

Now remove the area around the supposed calf of the necron and do the same procedure as the spine. (I have no picture for this in WIP but should look like this once complete)

The Arms are a bit special since I probably put down most time here.
Once you have chosen a pair of arms that you think will suit your little monster, remove the area between the elbow and shoulder-joint and pin a paperclip in the angle you want the arm to bend. Proceed then to do the same thing you did, using epoxy on the spine and legs. Here comes the hardest part, depending on how advance you want to go. Carefully remove the hands from the weapon you have choosen and start to remove the excess material left in the hands such as the stock and trigger. If you haven’t, this is a great time to replace your blade with a new sharp one but be carefull with your fingers.
Okay! once that is done, fix the hands to the arms and then we can begin to assemble the full mini.  Pin the legs to the torso and glue head and arms to the body an a suiting fashion.
Your finnished result should look something like this:


Now get the crew together.


You may choose to paint your murder machines in whatever fashion you want but the blood splatter was achieved by watering down some red acryllics and after getting little dab of paint on the brush, flicking the bristles in order to create the wanted effect.

Now your group of psychopathic murder robots are complete. And so should your snacks. Now go and impress some of your friends, colleagues or rivals with a new army of stylish high-tech necrons OR! Realease you drone spamming murderbots on some unsuspecting fellow players during an campain in the dark, desolate undergrounds of an abandoned research facility.

Hope you have had fun with this kind of tutorial.  Thank you for reading.

Site update and granual effects

SO! I have updated my site again and gonna try being active once again. srry for the hiatus.

I have split up the site in 2 basic categories, projects and tutorials.

The projects will contain all my work I have done, Including WIPs and so forth and Tutorials should speak for themselves as being a page where I share what I know.

I have added a New tutorial to it as well, Granual/cast Iron effects so go check it out if you feel you have the time, it’s in the tutorial section as it should.

Lastly I have finally recieved my price from ITSAGUNDAAAAAAM’s annual contest which makes oh so happy, gonna start building that MG Sinanju as soon as I’m done with the other projects. Thank you for taking your time to visit this page

DSC01577

Greenstuff: Stone-tile Basing

DSC01485In this tutorial I will try and show you how I make stone tiles and/or brick floors for miniature bases using greenstuff. let’s get going!

Also shout-out to the guys at Tiny Worlds wargaming blog and MiniPainterV who helped me get inspired to make this tutorial.


 

What you will need

requirements

First off all the tools and paints. You will need the following:

  • miniature bases (with miniatures removed from them)
  • greenstuff
  • water
  • plastic foil
  • ruler
  • hobby knife
  • small pin vice 
  • clippers (for metal)
  • paperclips (or similar small metal rods)
  • superglue

And for the paints I used:

  • dark rust (vgc)
  • shadows flesh (vgc)
  • dark rubber (vgc)
  • black (vgc)
  • leather brown (vgc)
  • stonewall grey (vgc)
  • dead white (vgc)
  • dheneb stone (gw)
  • nuln oil (gw)
  • agrax earthshade (gw)
  • seraph sepia (gw)
  • reikland fleshwash (gw)

vgc = vallejo game color | gw = games workshop.

For alternatives check out this Dakka Dakka forums conversion chart.


 

DSC01449Also don’t forget your most valuable asset of your tools for this build. One ok rock (just grab any you can find really, as long as it has texture to it).


 

 

Tutorial Start

DSC01450Okay, let’s actually start doing things! Soak your fingers in water and grab two equal parts of greenstuff (yellow and blue) and start kneading it together until it’s a solid green color. Place a dab of the mixed greenstuff on the base you want. Smooch some water on it and cover it with plastic foil, after that you take your ruler and begin to flatten the greenstuff to fill the base. The height of the greenstuff layer will determine how deep the cracks between the stones will be so adjust it after own desire, I personally went for about just around a millimeter which I found suiting for my miniatures. The water is used so that the greenstuff doesn’t stick too much to any surface, you can use other lubricants as well such as Vaseline, skin lotion and even saliva (haven’t tried this one but heard it works, ew).

 

Next you will want to spill some water on the luxurious rock you somehow have acquired and start pressing it against the greenstuff so that it starts leaving marks. be sure to randomize the patterns a bit to get a more natural stone look and don’t be afraid of the greenstuff spills out of the edges such as here, they will be cleaned off later in the tutorial.

 

This will be the desired look when completed (or similar).

 

Right now it looks pretty much like a rough surface and you can leave it like that if you are after a normal stone floor but since we are going for tiles grab your pointy knife and your covered base.

 

DSC01458 It’s now time to start making those tile lines. With the very tip of the knife start pushing (not dragging) a small line horizontally from one end to another on the greenstuff. Repeat by making some parallel lines and you got yourself some rows now. Now do the same thing vertically with only one exception to stop when you encounter a horizontal line, the end results will leave you with something similar to the above picture. Of course you don’t have to follow the exact same pattern just experiment with the size of the vertical and horizontal lines and their positions to make a different pattern. If you think the cuts between the rectangles are too deep or wide simply grab your rock again and start pressing it against the greenstuff to texture and flatten the surface a bit. If you also want cracks in the rock, start making small jagged lines carefully with your knife across the rectangles.

 

DSC01461Now let the pieces dry for at least 12-24 hours. You can increase the time by making a greenstuff oven (not demonstrated here) or placing the bases under a hot lamp (I do not take blame if things start smelling, melting or other. You are responsible if anything happens during the curing process of the greenstuff).


 

 

Painting Process

When the greenstuff are cured it’s time to trim the edges on the bases and then finally time to whip out some paints and start making those bases come to life. Start by priming or basing the pieces black by which method you prefer, I just took a brush and painted mine which works totally fine. After the black coat is dry take your grey paints and coat the tiles in different mixes of grey. I used Dark rubber as a base, then I mixed it either with Stonewall grey or with Black to get different tones of grey on the tiles. The browns were a mix of Dark rust, Leather brown and shadows flesh.

 

When your layers of grays are dry take your your brown washes (Agrax earhshade, Seraph sepia and Reikland fleshwash) and start randomize a pattern of the washes around the base to get a nice and natural rock feeling. You may once again use a lamp to hasten the curing process, the coat everything in a layer of Nuln oil and repeat. If you don’t have a lamp that you can use for curing you can just let it sit for about 30-45 min and the washes should be dry.

 

DSC01469Next step is to use a brush suitable for drybrushing (either use an old brush or used a dedicated brush). If you have no clue what drybrushing is, it can be simplified by saying that you take some paint to your desired brush and then wipe it on some surface so that there’s almost nothing left on the brush, then apply it on the mini. It’s an effective way to raise highlights quickly. Anyway, do a medium drybrush coat over the bases using the same paint you used before the washing to give the base some depth.

 

DSC01470Next do a similar drybrush using Dheneb stone to highlight even further.

DSC01471Lastly make a very, extremely very light drybrush of dead white to pick out any extreme highlights and after that you are mostly done.

 

The last thing you will need to do is to drill small holes in your mini’s feet (or corresponding whatever touching the base which it stands on). Then stick paper clips into the holes and cut them off with clippers. After that measure where the responding holes would be on the base and start drilling. Last thing you now need to do is mount the model to the base using some superglue of your own choosing and Viola! You now have yourself some stone-tiled bases for your models to stand on. Good job!