Gear up, suit up, paint up!

Okay I’ve finally done it, I’ve entered my first modelling competition at a local modelling convention, same one I wasn’t able to go to last year and I just wanted to send in a quick post about it. The con is called C4-open, is supposedly is one of south Scandinavia’s largest modelling competitions and will as traditionally be hosted at the technical museum during the last weekend of October. From what I’ve gathered last year, you compete in many different categories, with the most prominent being classical scale models such as planes, tanks and similar with a small of classes dedicated for general sci-fi, miniatures and other figures. The latter is where I’ll most likely place most of my entries at and I’m currently in the process of adding and finalizing some additional models since you can bring as many models as you like and only be charged once for entry.
If things stay the same as last time they are about to get a 300-something % increase in mechas which will be quite interesting to see. I also have one smaller project underway which I’m unsure if I’ll be able to finish in time but you’ll never know.

What i’m currently bringing to the table is my Emeth, puchigguy and Medusa 4 chaos sorcerer, but as I said, might be able to squeeze in some more and I’m dead curious on how they will judge my painting and modelling skills, also there’s a lot of tools and paints I usually have no clue where to otherwise get.

Time is limited and I’ve got quite a few projects going as well so I will leave you here for now. Thanks once again for reading and stay awesome.
// Cogs

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I don’t always complete a model, but when I do…

After spending a bit more then a year on my shelf I did the unthinkable and actually completed some models. In the past I’ve had some weird idea that doing proper highlights was way above my skill and effort. It might have been the fact that I did not have the tools, teaching or inspiration but during the latest couple of years I have slowly pushed myself out of such thinking and through sharing, asking and competing, I think I’m slowly progressing into a better painter.

Mostly I also try to test out one new method for every build that I make, aside from fun or relaxation builds. With that said, here are my 2 freshly finished battle suits with the addition of some proper pictures on my hammerhead gunship I did a while ago.

Descent Minis Update!!

It’s been a while and I have put painting most of them on hiatus but for now, I will update what I have.
All the hero characters with the inclusion of the Liutenant Ardus Ix’Erebus has been added to the descent NMM page on completed work. I have also added an additional page for all the monsters from descent. In the upcoming days I will continue to upload some work I’ve completed but not shared as well as some update to the page. see you in the next post 🙂

1/144 Puchigguy Antique

My winning entry for ITSAGUNDAAAAAAM!!!!!!‘s annual modelling contest. The theme this year was “in rust we trust” which focused on corrosion, battle damage and other types of scaring.

I will soon post the wip of the build, stay tuned

Greenstuff: Stone-tile Basing

DSC01485In this tutorial I will try and show you how I make stone tiles and/or brick floors for miniature bases using greenstuff. let’s get going!

Also shout-out to the guys at Tiny Worlds wargaming blog and MiniPainterV who helped me get inspired to make this tutorial.


 

What you will need

requirements

First off all the tools and paints. You will need the following:

  • miniature bases (with miniatures removed from them)
  • greenstuff
  • water
  • plastic foil
  • ruler
  • hobby knife
  • small pin vice 
  • clippers (for metal)
  • paperclips (or similar small metal rods)
  • superglue

And for the paints I used:

  • dark rust (vgc)
  • shadows flesh (vgc)
  • dark rubber (vgc)
  • black (vgc)
  • leather brown (vgc)
  • stonewall grey (vgc)
  • dead white (vgc)
  • dheneb stone (gw)
  • nuln oil (gw)
  • agrax earthshade (gw)
  • seraph sepia (gw)
  • reikland fleshwash (gw)

vgc = vallejo game color | gw = games workshop.

For alternatives check out this Dakka Dakka forums conversion chart.


 

DSC01449Also don’t forget your most valuable asset of your tools for this build. One ok rock (just grab any you can find really, as long as it has texture to it).


 

 

Tutorial Start

DSC01450Okay, let’s actually start doing things! Soak your fingers in water and grab two equal parts of greenstuff (yellow and blue) and start kneading it together until it’s a solid green color. Place a dab of the mixed greenstuff on the base you want. Smooch some water on it and cover it with plastic foil, after that you take your ruler and begin to flatten the greenstuff to fill the base. The height of the greenstuff layer will determine how deep the cracks between the stones will be so adjust it after own desire, I personally went for about just around a millimeter which I found suiting for my miniatures. The water is used so that the greenstuff doesn’t stick too much to any surface, you can use other lubricants as well such as Vaseline, skin lotion and even saliva (haven’t tried this one but heard it works, ew).

 

Next you will want to spill some water on the luxurious rock you somehow have acquired and start pressing it against the greenstuff so that it starts leaving marks. be sure to randomize the patterns a bit to get a more natural stone look and don’t be afraid of the greenstuff spills out of the edges such as here, they will be cleaned off later in the tutorial.

 

This will be the desired look when completed (or similar).

 

Right now it looks pretty much like a rough surface and you can leave it like that if you are after a normal stone floor but since we are going for tiles grab your pointy knife and your covered base.

 

DSC01458 It’s now time to start making those tile lines. With the very tip of the knife start pushing (not dragging) a small line horizontally from one end to another on the greenstuff. Repeat by making some parallel lines and you got yourself some rows now. Now do the same thing vertically with only one exception to stop when you encounter a horizontal line, the end results will leave you with something similar to the above picture. Of course you don’t have to follow the exact same pattern just experiment with the size of the vertical and horizontal lines and their positions to make a different pattern. If you think the cuts between the rectangles are too deep or wide simply grab your rock again and start pressing it against the greenstuff to texture and flatten the surface a bit. If you also want cracks in the rock, start making small jagged lines carefully with your knife across the rectangles.

 

DSC01461Now let the pieces dry for at least 12-24 hours. You can increase the time by making a greenstuff oven (not demonstrated here) or placing the bases under a hot lamp (I do not take blame if things start smelling, melting or other. You are responsible if anything happens during the curing process of the greenstuff).


 

 

Painting Process

When the greenstuff are cured it’s time to trim the edges on the bases and then finally time to whip out some paints and start making those bases come to life. Start by priming or basing the pieces black by which method you prefer, I just took a brush and painted mine which works totally fine. After the black coat is dry take your grey paints and coat the tiles in different mixes of grey. I used Dark rubber as a base, then I mixed it either with Stonewall grey or with Black to get different tones of grey on the tiles. The browns were a mix of Dark rust, Leather brown and shadows flesh.

 

When your layers of grays are dry take your your brown washes (Agrax earhshade, Seraph sepia and Reikland fleshwash) and start randomize a pattern of the washes around the base to get a nice and natural rock feeling. You may once again use a lamp to hasten the curing process, the coat everything in a layer of Nuln oil and repeat. If you don’t have a lamp that you can use for curing you can just let it sit for about 30-45 min and the washes should be dry.

 

DSC01469Next step is to use a brush suitable for drybrushing (either use an old brush or used a dedicated brush). If you have no clue what drybrushing is, it can be simplified by saying that you take some paint to your desired brush and then wipe it on some surface so that there’s almost nothing left on the brush, then apply it on the mini. It’s an effective way to raise highlights quickly. Anyway, do a medium drybrush coat over the bases using the same paint you used before the washing to give the base some depth.

 

DSC01470Next do a similar drybrush using Dheneb stone to highlight even further.

DSC01471Lastly make a very, extremely very light drybrush of dead white to pick out any extreme highlights and after that you are mostly done.

 

The last thing you will need to do is to drill small holes in your mini’s feet (or corresponding whatever touching the base which it stands on). Then stick paper clips into the holes and cut them off with clippers. After that measure where the responding holes would be on the base and start drilling. Last thing you now need to do is mount the model to the base using some superglue of your own choosing and Viola! You now have yourself some stone-tiled bases for your models to stand on. Good job!


 

 

 

 

Dungeonquest Models

 

Took this week to re-paint this 6 resin characters from Dugeonquest (revised ed). Continued to try some non metallic metal practice which proved a substantial challenge on larger areas such as Hugo the glorious’ shield. here’s the results from a weeks progress of work:

 

As a reference, here are the illustrations of the characters that are on each respective character sheet.

(illustrations owned by Fantasy flight games)

for next time, I think I want to try showing how to make stone dungeon floor from greenstuff. Hope you guys like my painting.

Hand painting Batman & the Joker

Something I found during my trip to the US. Made by Knight models and cost around 20$ each, totally worth it in my opinion though, imagine fielding one of these on as a substitute for a daemon prince or something 🙂 Anyhow here are the results of my work, tried some layering on both of them (not that visible on batman cause you know.. he wears all over black).

DSC01369DSC01370DSC01367DSC01368

on a side note, I top-coated them in satin (semi gloss) which makes the models very shiny when taking pictures. I think I’m going to go with matt top-coat next time.