More Mutant creatures

So imagine that sewage sludge in your drain. Imagine it laying for such a long time, with addition to some radiation, gain some symbol of primal sentience.  In the world of Mutant UA, that’s called a Swartzvattn and I tried to make a model for it. Give or take it’s my own free interpetation of it, it really just is a mass of old carcasses and sludge.
I used a chaos spawn as base and then I moved up from there with epoxy putty. Fully satisfied of how disgusting it looks.


Site update and granual effects

SO! I have updated my site again and gonna try being active once again. srry for the hiatus.

I have split up the site in 2 basic categories, projects and tutorials.

The projects will contain all my work I have done, Including WIPs and so forth and Tutorials should speak for themselves as being a page where I share what I know.

I have added a New tutorial to it as well, Granual/cast Iron effects so go check it out if you feel you have the time, it’s in the tutorial section as it should.

Lastly I have finally recieved my price from ITSAGUNDAAAAAAM’s annual contest which makes oh so happy, gonna start building that MG Sinanju as soon as I’m done with the other projects. Thank you for taking your time to visit this page


Greenstuff: Stone-tile Basing

DSC01485In this tutorial I will try and show you how I make stone tiles and/or brick floors for miniature bases using greenstuff. let’s get going!

Also shout-out to the guys at Tiny Worlds wargaming blog and MiniPainterV who helped me get inspired to make this tutorial.


What you will need


First off all the tools and paints. You will need the following:

  • miniature bases (with miniatures removed from them)
  • greenstuff
  • water
  • plastic foil
  • ruler
  • hobby knife
  • small pin vice 
  • clippers (for metal)
  • paperclips (or similar small metal rods)
  • superglue

And for the paints I used:

  • dark rust (vgc)
  • shadows flesh (vgc)
  • dark rubber (vgc)
  • black (vgc)
  • leather brown (vgc)
  • stonewall grey (vgc)
  • dead white (vgc)
  • dheneb stone (gw)
  • nuln oil (gw)
  • agrax earthshade (gw)
  • seraph sepia (gw)
  • reikland fleshwash (gw)

vgc = vallejo game color | gw = games workshop.

For alternatives check out this Dakka Dakka forums conversion chart.


DSC01449Also don’t forget your most valuable asset of your tools for this build. One ok rock (just grab any you can find really, as long as it has texture to it).



Tutorial Start

DSC01450Okay, let’s actually start doing things! Soak your fingers in water and grab two equal parts of greenstuff (yellow and blue) and start kneading it together until it’s a solid green color. Place a dab of the mixed greenstuff on the base you want. Smooch some water on it and cover it with plastic foil, after that you take your ruler and begin to flatten the greenstuff to fill the base. The height of the greenstuff layer will determine how deep the cracks between the stones will be so adjust it after own desire, I personally went for about just around a millimeter which I found suiting for my miniatures. The water is used so that the greenstuff doesn’t stick too much to any surface, you can use other lubricants as well such as Vaseline, skin lotion and even saliva (haven’t tried this one but heard it works, ew).


Next you will want to spill some water on the luxurious rock you somehow have acquired and start pressing it against the greenstuff so that it starts leaving marks. be sure to randomize the patterns a bit to get a more natural stone look and don’t be afraid of the greenstuff spills out of the edges such as here, they will be cleaned off later in the tutorial.


This will be the desired look when completed (or similar).


Right now it looks pretty much like a rough surface and you can leave it like that if you are after a normal stone floor but since we are going for tiles grab your pointy knife and your covered base.


DSC01458 It’s now time to start making those tile lines. With the very tip of the knife start pushing (not dragging) a small line horizontally from one end to another on the greenstuff. Repeat by making some parallel lines and you got yourself some rows now. Now do the same thing vertically with only one exception to stop when you encounter a horizontal line, the end results will leave you with something similar to the above picture. Of course you don’t have to follow the exact same pattern just experiment with the size of the vertical and horizontal lines and their positions to make a different pattern. If you think the cuts between the rectangles are too deep or wide simply grab your rock again and start pressing it against the greenstuff to texture and flatten the surface a bit. If you also want cracks in the rock, start making small jagged lines carefully with your knife across the rectangles.


DSC01461Now let the pieces dry for at least 12-24 hours. You can increase the time by making a greenstuff oven (not demonstrated here) or placing the bases under a hot lamp (I do not take blame if things start smelling, melting or other. You are responsible if anything happens during the curing process of the greenstuff).



Painting Process

When the greenstuff are cured it’s time to trim the edges on the bases and then finally time to whip out some paints and start making those bases come to life. Start by priming or basing the pieces black by which method you prefer, I just took a brush and painted mine which works totally fine. After the black coat is dry take your grey paints and coat the tiles in different mixes of grey. I used Dark rubber as a base, then I mixed it either with Stonewall grey or with Black to get different tones of grey on the tiles. The browns were a mix of Dark rust, Leather brown and shadows flesh.


When your layers of grays are dry take your your brown washes (Agrax earhshade, Seraph sepia and Reikland fleshwash) and start randomize a pattern of the washes around the base to get a nice and natural rock feeling. You may once again use a lamp to hasten the curing process, the coat everything in a layer of Nuln oil and repeat. If you don’t have a lamp that you can use for curing you can just let it sit for about 30-45 min and the washes should be dry.


DSC01469Next step is to use a brush suitable for drybrushing (either use an old brush or used a dedicated brush). If you have no clue what drybrushing is, it can be simplified by saying that you take some paint to your desired brush and then wipe it on some surface so that there’s almost nothing left on the brush, then apply it on the mini. It’s an effective way to raise highlights quickly. Anyway, do a medium drybrush coat over the bases using the same paint you used before the washing to give the base some depth.


DSC01470Next do a similar drybrush using Dheneb stone to highlight even further.

DSC01471Lastly make a very, extremely very light drybrush of dead white to pick out any extreme highlights and after that you are mostly done.


The last thing you will need to do is to drill small holes in your mini’s feet (or corresponding whatever touching the base which it stands on). Then stick paper clips into the holes and cut them off with clippers. After that measure where the responding holes would be on the base and start drilling. Last thing you now need to do is mount the model to the base using some superglue of your own choosing and Viola! You now have yourself some stone-tiled bases for your models to stand on. Good job!





Dungeonquest Models


Took this week to re-paint this 6 resin characters from Dugeonquest (revised ed). Continued to try some non metallic metal practice which proved a substantial challenge on larger areas such as Hugo the glorious’ shield. here’s the results from a weeks progress of work:


As a reference, here are the illustrations of the characters that are on each respective character sheet.

(illustrations owned by Fantasy flight games)

for next time, I think I want to try showing how to make stone dungeon floor from greenstuff. Hope you guys like my painting.

Hand painting Batman & the Joker

Something I found during my trip to the US. Made by Knight models and cost around 20$ each, totally worth it in my opinion though, imagine fielding one of these on as a substitute for a daemon prince or something 🙂 Anyhow here are the results of my work, tried some layering on both of them (not that visible on batman cause you know.. he wears all over black).


on a side note, I top-coated them in satin (semi gloss) which makes the models very shiny when taking pictures. I think I’m going to go with matt top-coat next time.

Descent characters part 1 NMM

I got my hands on the wonderful game Descent last autumn and though to myself: Damn they look boring in monotone resin so I thought I would start painting them and experiment a bit with techniques. First time I tried out the non metal metal technique and got really satisfied with it. here is the first batch of characters:

above: Tomble Burrowell

above: Leoric of the Book

above: Grisban the thirsty

All in all very detailed minis for being approximately 40mm and loved every second painting them. good game as well be sure to check it out and stay tuned for part 2.